My Head, My Tits, And My Ass!

Ever grabbed your head, your tits and and your ass, looked up at the sky and thanked God to be alive? I have that experience in Central America everyday!

Here are some pics of Monica and I surfing a secret beach in Costa Rica. We ran out of gas on the road and were blessed with a Tico fix from a friendly passerby who helped me to push the truck up the hill as Monica steered and brought us gas in a bottle on the side of the road (everyday, a new adventure!). The waves were super fun and I surfed awesome (I’m getting better everyday!) but there’s always one that takes me under and the more confident I get, the more gnarly my wipeouts! This time it was one of the largest waves I’ve gone for and my nose took a dive as I fell over the falls, I tucked into a ball, prayed for my board and fins not to hit me, grabbed my head, my tits, and my ass, popped up and thanked God for my life!

Another day…

Together in Health!
xob